ENIGMA -- The population of this Berrien County community, nine miles east of Tifton, has doubled over the years (from 500 to 900), not that you would readily notice. There are no traffic lights, no stop signs, no noticeable signs of progress.

To get here, you take U.S. 82 from Tifton toward Alapaha, which is between Enigma and Willocoochee. If you happen this way, Lee Garren -- a nice, friendly lady -- will serve you the best vegetable plate you could want at the Corner Café. Naturally, the traditional Southern mealtime accessories, iced tea and cornbread, are included.